I started looking at the work of some of the designers my tutor had suggested. I was looking at how designers had used textiles in fashion in a unexpected way. A more experimental an fun way than my way. My Tutor told me in my review that she envisioned my work to be more experimental and was very kind in comparing my work with some of these designers. How can I turn the work that I have done so far into something a bit more experimental, that uses some of my previous findings and developments? This was a challenge at this stage.
Above: I enjoy the combination of the fabric manipulations that Maison Margiela has used, very clever! Folding and looping the fabric to create a beautiful feature on the chest area and cutting circles shapes on the shoulders. I enjoy the choice of fabric. The designer uses what looks like rubbery fabric that doesn’t fray, creating beautiful movement . So cool!
Above: Maison Mariela used fabric manipulation to create some interesting fabrics. Cutting circles in the fabric creating a positive and negative space on the textiles and adding an interesting texture to a classic shape on the garment.
Above: Comme de garçons gathers fabric to create exaggerated shoulder blades probably inspired by a “torero” outfit. Pleats and gathered fabric serve to create an exciting, unexpected outcome. How can I do this in my style? With my print?
Above: this is an 💡. I enjoy how Comme de Garçons has used a bright print on a coat. What really works well on this design in my opinion is the exaggerated scale of the print. The folded detailed on the top right makes the “straight forward” shape of the coat more interesting.
Looking at this design can I experiment with scale on my prints? Could this add an unexpected feel to my garment suggestions?
Above: slashing fabric, folding and ruffling strips to create roses. More interesting ideas but I don’t think it would work with my prints although this has given me a new idea. It would be an interesting idea to deconstruct my images to see what new images I could create. A collage of my images?
Above: I don’t even know what I feel about this design!
I enjoy the way the designer has cut and joined fabric to create a shape whilst mixing pattern and colour without any obvious rules. This design is the epiphany of “experimental”
… but why though?
So I started designing my new surface print only using my more “cheeky” and “saucy” mono prints that my tutor advised me were more of a reflection of my voice. I also decided to use my colour studies mono-prints as these were some of my more experimental and exiting ones. I experimented with cutting and joining my images via CAD. This process added more texture and changed my print into one that wasn’t as “flat” as my previous one.
I enjoy the marks of the excess paint, the heighten hues and inversion of colours. At this point I don’t know how will this translate in a garment or fabric.
As for the concept? I think there is still many questions un-answered to refine the concept. For now the concept is simple. It is my journey to finding out what influenced me to drawing the female shape. ‘Female shape through an artist view’ that is my concept. I started out with a question and ended up with many more. That’s ok though! I think the results of me listening to my tutors review and changing my print using bright colours and my ‘”cheeky” prints have resulted in a more experimental print. Less classic and more contemporary (in my opinion).
Now the question is: what fabric do I print this in? And how can I use it for a garment suggestion?
I decided to print my new colourful surface print on two types of fabrics and in two different scales. The smaller scale print was printed on velvet as I was interested in seeing how the print would translate. Would the raised surface add to my print?.
The quality turned out good and very rich in texture and colour. It has different tones depending on how the fabric moves – this adds richness to the print.
The second sample of fabric; the print is about four times bigger than the original. I printed this sample on canvas just to see the difference. This sample is not as rich in colour, it appears duller than the previous sample but some of the marks on my mono-prints show better. It is interesting to see how changing the scale of my drawings has changed the overlook of the image as well as changing the fabric.
I investigated and experimented draping my fabric to arrive at some interesting design ideas and some not so interesting. The bikini top is probably to obvious and not as interesting as some of my other ideas.
Above: A drawing of one of my draping practice. I enjoy the way the fabric drapes and has created an un-even hem. I enjoy the way the fabric has just gathered at the bottom. I drew the images of front and back. Imagining how it would look with my drawing embroidered at the front of the neck line.
I experimented using a combination of a plain cotton fabric and my velvet sample to see what the resulting effect would be. The velvet is easy to pleat but the drape doesn’t flow like the cotton does. I also feel that there is no point in having such a bold print if you can’t see it.
Above: more investigations on how my two samples of fabrics could work in a garment. Pleating the fabrics just hides the print – it doesn’t work. The canvas fabric is better than the velvet to pleat but the scale of the print doesn’t work for this design.
After my experiments folding and gathering my fabric on a dummy I have decided to try and make my design above to see how it would work with my samples of fabrics. I think the jacket would work well with my chosen samples. I am hoping that my velvet sample is stiff enough for the sleeve. The original idea of the sleeve comes from exercise 5 part 1 of MMT. I am curious to see how this will turn out. It is a bolero jacket inspired by my childhood inspirations in Spain.
Above: I enjoy the way I have used my fan experiments from project 1 Folding and crumpling. The idea is good but it doesn’t work with the scale of my print. I think if I was to make my print much smaller it could work but I would also have to use a thinner fabric. Maybe cotton? So the pleats work better. At this point I am not going to spend more money printing fabric. I will develop what I already have.
This design demonstrates clearly how I am able to develop my experimental folding samples into garment ideas.
Below: I used Comme des garçons idea of using a bigger scale surface print as the main focus of a garment design. I think this design works better for my print. It shows my print at its’s best. I chose to use the top half of the dress in a plain white cotton to accentuate the boldness of the print and colour. The sleeve detail is pleated (similar to what Comme des garçons had done in a design above (in a smaller scale) also adding a bit of Spanish influence to the design. I personally think this design is successful. I am pleased with the outcome. The shape of the garment suits the print. The design of this dress is not as comercial as my original design. The print is bolder and reflects my experimental and slightly cheeky creative voice. I am still wondering if it is a safe design? Could I go a bit more “eccentric”?. I set out in part five to find a way of using my drawings (Mono-prints) on a garment designed by me and in the process I have learnt a lot. In this case I have learnt to experiment and take some of my ideas further. I have learnt to experiment with scale of print to be able to come up with different effects and outcomes. Investigating pleating and gathering fabric on my dummy was insightful and very important to understand shape, drape and come up with different garment ideas.
Below: my final exploration for Mixed media. After my tutors comments in my report I set out to come out with a more experimental prototype that reflects not only my creative voice but my learnings through Mixed media for textiles. I decided to use some of my research and ideas from earlier exercises. I developed my idea of folding and joining circled shape paper but this time with fabric. I decided to explore what would happen if I combine some fabric manipulation with my mono-prints.
Looking at the result on the whole I think It’s successful because I achieved what I set out to achieve. The design would not be to everyone’s taste. I can already hear the comments and questions. Why has it only got one sleeve? The answer would be because I thought the garment is overloaded with features. the pattern is bold and the fabric is very rich… and then there is an over complicated sleeve. I thought that there was a better valance in the design if It just had one sleeve. I wanted an unpredictable design. The shape is inspired by a Spanish bull fighting costume that a ‘torero’ would wear.
There is more improvements to be made. For example: when doing the pattern and adding darts to the garment it distorts the print and therefore the overall look of the design. I left the front of the jacket frayed and without buttons as I wanted the contrast of shiny and finished versus unfinished. The pattern on the fabric dictated the shape of the jacket. The sleeve feels like the pages of a book. In every page there is a different iteration of my drawing.
My original context of ‘female form from an artist point of view’ took me back to Spain where I grew up. Whilst there I was forced to look at Sculpture and paintings all around the streets of Madrid. This investigation made me reflect on myself as an artist and as a woman; raising so many questions in me. From my inspiration and research I developed and refined some drawings and printed them on a larger scale on velvet and linen. This sample is rich in colour and pattern. It is not at all minimal but for some reason I personally like it. The sample is loud, colourful, tactful and unexpected. It is also a 3D sculpture o piece of wearable art.
Above: More variations and developments on the sleeves of the jacket.
On close inspection I felt that the model used was not edgy enough for my garment.
Below: I explored how my garment might change with a different model. I have realised that even choosing a model for a garment can strengthen the look , feel and even the context of my theme. I think the images below are stronger than the ones above, they feel more editorial. There is still improvements to be made like the photoshop is not perfect. The sleeves are probably not very clear but for now I think I have presented my garment suggestion in the context it was intended. I wanted a edgy, contemporary and experimental. I still need to improve in pattern repetition to achieve better surface design so the result is not as “boxy” .
So much to learn…